If you haven’t been on Nikolskaya street in the center of Moscow these days, be sure to come and come. We “Pravmir” get out, now telling and showing. White-blue-red Cameroonian Rigobert, “Serbia and RUSIA brothers zauvek” and “Ciao, Messi” from the Brazilian fans.
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Even those of us who really do not like that Russia took an expensive world Cup, creaking heart, forced to admit that the holiday was a success, and it is not in football. Moscow, say, the Olympics-80 never seen so many happy foreign. And we, the Russians, when there is so often a conspiratorial smile at each other, if not now, when at any metro station comes to touching a couple of Mexicans – an elderly man in a wheelchair and, throughout, his adult son, who drove his father halfway around the world for the sake of football, or a family with a baby, wrapped in the Argentine flag, or Brazilian boys, who are chanting “Messi, Chao, Messi, Chao-Chao-Chao”?
And if Moscow football these days – capital of the world, St. Nicholas – street, peace, joy and carnival. Why foreign fans liking it this close is actually a street, not main or, say, the barbarian, is not known. Most likely back in Moscow, people went to Red square, was upset because she had long been closed, and stayed to celebrate about her, to see the red stars of the Kremlin, at least through the iron fence and the harsh faces of the Russian police.
Nicholas, as the entire center of Moscow, painted in the colors of national flags depending on the match of the day. On the evening of 27 June, it was green-yellow-blue-white-red – Brazilians were playing with the Serbs. By this time the main square of Moscow was open, and the fans even stand kilometer queue to the Mausoleum to see the leader of the people (though it is open until afternoon, so the queues we have not seen), but fun to make noise and still go to St. Nicholas. Compared to her even the area in front of the theater looks abandoned and lonely.
Because we are Orthodox
Pass the iron frame and end up in the center of the football madness: people having fun, cafe tables groaning under the weight of empty beer glasses, some girls for 200 rubles Brazilians paint the national flags on the face (say, the service is in demand), others sell colored cap with ear-caps hung with toy orders.
In front of the Cathedral of the Kazan icon of the Mother of God at the corner of red square and Nikolskaya street stretched out a huge banner, singing and dancing to the Serbs. Among chants his own and others clearly heard a prayer to God. In the depths of St. Nicholas, which spontaneously turned the fan camp of the Serbian fans, it is not clear what climbing, towering above the crowd a man in the Serbian national clothing. Razzadorila countrymen, he also does not forget periodically to be baptized.
From all parts of the Nikol can be clearly heard “Serbia and RUSIA brothers zauvek”. These same words written on some flags and blue and white shirts, very reminiscent of Russian. Ripped from the buzzing crowd of drunken Serbian guest and ask why Russia and Serbia – brothers forever.
Because we are Orthodox! just time to say it, as friends did not back him in the crowd of revelers.
The Brazilians surprisingly behave calmly. Apparently, they were confident in their team (midnight Brazil beat Serbia with 2:0) and kept power for a victorious night festivities.
– I am happy to be in Russia, – says an engineer from Brazil, Thiago. – People are much more friendly than I expected. All great: the sights, the atmosphere, but the most stunning thing in Russia is the people. We, Brazilians, have a good time you have, and I am glad that the Russian and us good. I have managed to visit Moscow and St. Petersburg. It is hard to decide which city I liked more. Saint Petersburg is incredible, it is a very cultural city, and Moscow – a powerful, energetic. Russia is better than I expected. I dream to return one day.
If not one “but”
Football turns out to be common. Like St. Nicholas took the opposing team, but no competition there. In the area of transition to Theatre way get into the blue-green-red-yellow-white crowd to Serbian and Brazilian fans sing along, dance, hug and take pictures for memory.
Too good to be true, I think, and decide to approach the police to find out what the riots are happening on the street when we leave. The police officer initially hard listening to my words – suddenly I was a foreigner or say something important, but when it comes to “write a report”, his face takes an expression frustrated and tired:
Girl, I work so, COP nervously knocking his hand across his throat. – That’s how I work. Even you with your report, and hiding in the buzzing crowd.
Volunteers gathered at the information Desk, also can not find out anything interesting. A young man, to whom I spoke first, explained that without the permission of his team leader to say nothing. Team leader in turn referred to the General staff: it turns out, all comments and interviews only through them, and then suddenly “enemies machinations, what else.”
– But I just wanted to know what questions to ask foreigners.
– Nothing: how to go, where to buy, where to go.
However, it is good that foreigners have to ask someone for directions. For example, Paul, another Brazilian walking along Nikolskaya, like many, had already come to love Russia, even though living here stay, if not one “but”:
– When I get home, I will advise my friends to go to Russia, because it is a very beautiful country, very nice people. I’d come back here. All you have is cool, the only thing almost no one knows English.
Many on Nikolskaya wear hats as a symbol of the championship, the wolf Zabivki, a little farther on, at the Revolution square, is a lively and popular character – the Cameroonian from suburban Lyubertsy, a large man Rigamer Eunbi. Every day he puts on his trousers the colors of the Russian tricolor, painted in white, blue and red and goes to town to cheering fans and free to be photographed with everyone. Rigamer dreams that the Russian team will win the championship, and just in case asks everyone who approaches him tickets for any match. And if the ticket Rigamer not yet received, at least in people’s love bathes.
Photo: Yefim, Richman